Cổ Lễ Pagoda
Ninh Bình(formerly Nam Định)(Chùa Cổ Lễ)
Overview & history
Cổ Lễ Pagoda is a complex of Buddhist and Vietnamese folk-religious architecture featuring Gothic architectural elements, located in Cổ Lễ commune, Ninh Bình province, right next to National Highway 21A, 38 km east of the provincial centre at Hoa Lư ward. Within the pagoda is the largest Đại Hồng Chung (Great Bell) in Vietnam, cast in 1936 by Venerable Thích Thế Long. The pagoda has been recognised as a Special National Monument.
History
According to the introductory board inside the pagoda, Cổ Lễ Pagoda was originally built during the reign of Lý Thần Tông, founded by the national master Nguyễn Minh Không to worship the Buddha. The first pagoda was made of wood in the traditional architectural style. However, this original pagoda fell into ruin. In 1902, monk Phạm Quang Tuyên became abbot and designed and rebuilt the pagoda in the "Nhất Thốc Lâu đài" style, incorporating Gothic architectural elements similar to the many Catholic churches in the surrounding area. Since then, the pagoda has undergone several restorations. The building materials include brick, lime mortar, molasses, and dó paper, creating the solid cohesion of the entire pagoda structure.
Architecture
Cổ Lễ Pagoda is a fusion of traditional Vietnamese architectural elements with European Gothic architecture. This is a Buddhist pagoda but bears the appearance of a Christian cathedral.
In front of the pagoda stands the Cửu Phẩm Liên Hoa (Nine-tiered Lotus Tower), 32 metres high with 8 sides, erected in 1927. The base of the tower rests on the back of a large turtle, its head facing the pagoda. The turtle lies in the middle of a square-shaped pond, with four large artificial mountains at the corners, each adorned with a life-sized elephant. Inside the tower is a spiral staircase of 98 steps leading to the top. Legend has it that Buddhist devotees and pilgrims who reach the 98th step and touch the statue at the top of the tower will enjoy good fortune throughout their lives.
Next to the tower is a curved bridge with three spans crossing Chu Tích Lake (also called Núi Lake), known as Cuốn Bridge. The bridge surface is paved with bricks.
Cuốn Bridge leads to Trình Pagoda, also called the Buddhist Assembly Hall. Trình Pagoda was built in 1936 and restored in 2001. Inside the pagoda is a statue of the Thousand-armed Avalokiteśvara (Quan Âm). In front of Trình Pagoda's courtyard are two enormous bronze censers.
To the left of Trình Pagoda is Linh Quang Từ Temple, built in 1937, dedicated to Trần Hưng Đạo and two doctoral laureates from Cổ Lễ village: Bảng nhãn Đào Sư Mỗ and Third-rank Doctor Đào Toàn Mỗ. To the right of Trình Pagoda is Khánh Quang phủ, built in 1937, a sanctuary dedicated to the Tam Tòa Thánh Mẫu (Three Palaces of the Holy Mothers).
Behind Trình Pagoda is a large lake. In the centre of the lake is a bell weighing 9,000 kg, called the Đại Hồng Chung. The bell is 4.2 metres high, 2.2 metres in diameter, with walls 8 cm thick. The bell mouth is decorated with lotus petal motifs, the body with floral, aquatic motifs, and some Chinese characters. This bell has never been struck, but local legend says that if it were, the sound would be heard throughout the province and neighbouring areas. This is one of the largest bells in Vietnam. The local people, out of love for the pagoda, cast it as a gift. During the casting process, many people contributed rings, bracelets, and gold, melting them into the bell. When the bell was just completed, the resistance war broke out, so the locals, fearing enemy sabotage, submerged the bell in the lake. In 1954, the bell was retrieved and has since been displayed on a stone pedestal for visitors.
There are two bridges resembling mountain caves, called Núi Bridges, crossing the lake and leading to the main structure of Cổ Lễ Pagoda, which is Thần Quang Pagoda. The main hall is designed in a harmonious blend of traditional and modern styles. Thần Quang Tự was built in 1914 on the foundation of the ancient pagoda from the 12th century. In 1995, the pagoda underwent major restoration. Inside is a 4-metre-high Buddha statue, lacquered and gilded, made of eucalyptus wood, placed on an upper level accessible by staircases on both sides. Behind the Buddha statue is an altar with a statue of Nguyễn Minh Không.
From the Buddha hall, corridors run around to the rear, connecting to the guest house and the ancestral house. The corridor walls are lined with commemorative steles. In the ancestral house is a statue of Venerable Phạm Quang Tuyên.
Behind the ancestral hall is a large bell tower of traditional architecture with three storeys and four sides, called Kim Chung Bảo Các. This bell tower is 13.4 metres high, built in 1997. The second floor houses a large bronze bell, 4.2 metres high, 2.03 metres wide, weighing 9,000 kg, cast in 2003. The third floor holds another bronze bell cast during the Lê Cảnh Thịnh era, weighing 300 kg.
Behind the bell tower is the pagoda's ancestral tomb area.
Within the pagoda there is also a bronze drum and boats used for traditional rowing competitions. The pagoda is surrounded on all sides by gardens, ponds, and rivers.
Thanks to the combination of the essence of traditional Vietnamese architecture with Western architectural elements, Cổ Lễ Pagoda has become a famous site in the Red River Delta region.
Pagoda Festival
The pagoda festival takes place from the 13th to the 16th day of the 9th lunar month each year, featuring many traditional cultural rituals rich in humanistic values such as the Buddha procession, wrestling, human chess, and especially the traditional boat racing competition on the winding river around the pagoda.
Successive Abbots
Venerable Thích Quang Tuyên, 45th generation of the Tào Động lineage
Venerable Thích Chính Long (Thích Thế Long), 46th generation of the Tào Động lineage, Standing Vice Chairman of the Central Committee of the Vietnam Buddhist Sangha (GHPGVN), Vice Chairman of the National Assembly of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.
Venerable Thích Tâm Vượng
Photos
📷 Contribute photosVisiting tips
- Dress modestly; remove hats and keep quiet inside the main hall.
- Incense, flowers and offerings are usually sold right outside the gate; light an odd number of sticks (1 or 3).
- Most pagodas open from early morning to evening and are free to enter (some major sites charge a small scenic fee).
- Full-moon days, the 1st of the lunar month and Tet are very crowded; visit on weekday mornings for a quiet experience.
- Ask permission before photographing inside shrines; do not touch statues or altar objects.
Read more & references
Useful links to learn more before your visit:
Location
Coordinates: 20.27433, 106.27405
🧭 Directions on Google MapsReferences
- Vietnamese Wikipedia
- http://www.tuoitre.com.vn/Tianyon/Index.aspx?ArticleID=136000&ChannelID=10
- http://vietnamnet.vn/psks/baoban/2007/07/723516/
- http://lehoi.cinet.vn/Pages/ArticleDetail.aspx?siteid=1&sitepageid=300&articleid=1624
- https://web.archive.org/web/20060517222447/http://tuoitre.com.vn/Tianyon/Index.aspx?ArticleID=136000&ChannelID=10