Voi Phục Temple

Voi Phục Temple (Formal name: "Tây trấn từ") is a temple within the Thăng Long tứ trấn (Four Guardian Temples of Thăng Long Citadel), consisting of four protective shrines. The temple is located at 362 Kim Mã Street, Giảng Võ Ward, Hanoi City, next to Thủ Lệ Park, near the Lê Duẩn Youth School and opposite the University of Transport and Communications.

The temple was established during the reign of Lý Thái Tông (1028–1054) at the southwest corner of the old Thăng Long Citadel, in the area of Thủ Lệ village, now Thủ Lệ Park. It worships Prince Linh Lang, son of King Lý Thái Tông and his ninth concubine Dương Thị Quang, though legend holds he was actually the son of Long Quân, named Hoàng Châu, who was incarnated and made great contributions in the resistance against the invading Song army, sacrificing his life on the Cầu River defensive line in 1076.

After his death, the people of Thủ Lệ built a temple to worship him, and the king bestowed upon him the title Linh Lang Đại Vương Thượng Đẳng Phúc Thần (Great King Linh Lang, Supreme Beneficent Deity). The deity is said to have spiritually aided the Trần dynasty in their wars against the Mongol-Yuan invaders, and the Lê dynasty during its restoration. Because there are two kneeling elephants sculpted in front of the temple, it became popularly known as Voi Phục Temple ("Kneeling Elephant Temple"), and as it is located on the western side of the citadel, it is also called the Western Guardian or Đoài Guardian (Đoài, in the Eight Trigrams, corresponds to the West).

Voi Phục Temple is currently situated in Ngọc Khánh Ward, Ba Đình District, Hanoi. It is also referred to as Thủ Lệ Voi Phục Temple to distinguish it from Thụy Khuê Voi Phục Temple at 251 Thụy Khuê Street, Tây Hồ District, Hanoi. Previously, the temple was part of the Tứ Trấn system, "guarding" the western side of the citadel. This area was once full of ponds and marshes, and was one of the Thập tam trại (Thirteen Villages) established during the Lý dynasty. At that time, it belonged to the Nội Tổng, Quảng Đức District, Phụng Thiên Prefecture.

According to legend, Voi Phục Temple was built in the 7th year of Chương Thánh Gia Khánh (1065), during the reign of King Lý Thánh Tông, on a high mound in the land of Thủ Lệ hamlet—one of the 13 villages west of Thăng Long Citadel. The entrance to the temple is now marked by a tứ trụ (four-pillar gate), symbolising cosmic axes bringing vital energy from the heavens to the earth (a product of the 19th–20th centuries). On either side of the gate are hạ mã steles (dismounting stones) and a pair of kneeling elephants (a new tứ trụ ceremonial gate has recently been added, close to the main road). It is precisely because of these features that the temple is named Voi Phục.

There are three paths leading up to the courtyard; the central path has 12 wide stone steps, reserved for palanquin processions during festivals, while on regular days, people use the two side paths. In front of the central path is a square well, symbolising the gathering of water and blessings, from which water was once drawn for offerings (the well may have been reshaped into a square in recent times). The wish for water and abundance is further expressed in the pair of stone "cloud dragons" carved in the round, a product of the mid-19th century, and the pair of relief-carved hổ phù (tiger amulets) on either side of the main entrance, executed in a standard style. Voi Phục Temple is built in the shape of the Chinese character Công (工). The front ceremonial hall has five bays, with a stacked-beam structure and a roof of traditional curved tiles.

The central hall consists of one bay running lengthwise inward, connecting to the rear sanctuary. In this hall stands a large throne intricately carved with dragons and flowers, with motifs characteristic of 19th-century art. Below the deity's throne are statues of two kneeling attendant generals. The rear sanctuary also has five bays; the central bay, deepest and highest, houses the statue of Đức Linh Lang Đại Vương, with a refined and noble countenance. In front of his statue is a large stone placed in a glass case. The stone has a depression, said by legend to be where the deity once rested his head. On either side of the stone are statues of two attendant aides. In addition to the statues, the temple contains horizontal lacquered boards, parallel sentences, incense tables, dragon thrones, a richly decorated altar screen, and ritual objects, all lavishly gilded.

Voi Phục Temple has been restored and repaired many times, and the current building is more spacious than the old temple, which was destroyed by the French colonialists in 1947. In 1994, the people of Thủ Lệ contributed funds to recast the temple bell, which is 93 cm high, 70 cm in mouth diameter, divided into four panels, each inscribed in raised Han script: "Tây trấn thượng đẳng" (Supreme Western Guardian). On 10 August 2000, Hanoi City began restoration work on Voi Phục Temple, focusing mainly on rebuilding the Hữu Vu Hall and completing the overall architectural complex. On 4 July 2009, the temple was once again restored and embellished in preparation for the 1000th anniversary of Thăng Long–Hanoi. The temple is now completely separated from Thủ Lệ Park, situated on Long Thủ mound in a spacious area shaded by luxuriant trees. Its façade faces the vast, rippling Thủ Lệ Lake. After restoration, anyone travelling along Kim Mã Street towards Cầu Giấy, at the end of Thủ Lệ Lake, can easily spot the splendid and imposing gate of Voi Phục Temple on the right. Voi Phục Temple was designated a historical and cultural monument by the Ministry of Culture on 28 April 1962.

The temple festival is an annual cultural event, open in nature, with the participation of people from all directions, extending beyond the Thủ Lệ area to at least the regions of Thụy Khuê, Thủ Lệ, Vạn Phúc, the Thập tam trại villages, and even Bồng Lai (Đan Phượng – Hà Tây). The main festival at Voi Phục Temple takes place on the 9th and 10th days of the second lunar month, and in some years may last from 3 to 10 days depending on community contributions, with the most notable activities being the palanquin procession and several other rituals.

Historically, Voi Phục Temple served as a sacred guardian on the western side of Thăng Long Citadel. The temple is not only directly connected to the capital but has also absorbed many streams of folk belief to endure over time. Today, it is difficult for anyone to fully grasp all the sacred meanings embodied in this holy and beautiful architecture; it is only known that Voi Phục Temple will always be deservedly preserved and embellished, as it is a shining example in the spirit of preserving the national cultural identity.