Tiên Châu Pagoda

Tiên Châu Pagoda, also known as Tiên Châu Tự, and also called Di Đà Pagoda; is one of the oldest pagodas in Vĩnh Long province (Vietnam).

Tiên Châu Pagoda is situated on Tiên sandbank, on the left bank of the Cổ Chiên River, on An Bình islet (commonly known as Táng islet). In the past, this area belonged to Bình Lương and An Thành villages (now Bình Lương hamlet, An Bình commune), Long Hồ district, Vĩnh Long province.

Although the location of the pagoda is not far from Vĩnh Long citadel (separated only by the Cổ Chiên River), the atmosphere here is tranquil, with lush trees and sparse housing. According to legend, on clear, breezy moonlit nights, celestial maidens would occasionally descend to bathe and frolic. Therefore, this riverbank was named Tiên sandbank (Tiên Châu) or Bích Trân sandbank. Additionally, because this land has many small creeks, making it easy for boats to pass, it is also called Bát Tân sandbank (meaning travel in all directions).

Regarding Tiên Châu Pagoda, the book Đại Nam nhất thống chí records:

Di Đà Pagoda is in front of Bích Trân sandbank, in the territory of Vĩnh Bình district, built by Venerable Hoàng Đức Hội, with water flowing around it, the temple and its quarters are serene, commonly called Tiên Châu Pagoda, also known as Tô Châu Pagoda.

Regarding Tiên sandbank, the book Gia Định thành thông chí states:

To the north of the citadel, with a circumference of 12 dặm, the trees are a deep green, the water sparkles like jade. It is also called Bát Tân, meaning a wharf open to all eight directions. This place forms a sandbank protecting the Long Hồ River, both sides closing in like the lapels of a robe, encircling the two villages of Bình Lương and An Thành. On the shore, fishermen dry their nets and hang their raincoats, appearing and disappearing among the forest tops and tree roots. In autumn, fishing boats play with the moon, singing beneath the mangrove trees, drifting on the white sandbanks, bobbing back and forth, creating the joys of the fishing folk.

According to an article on Tiên Châu Pagoda by author Trần Thành Trung, around the mid-18th century there was already a small hermitage made of bamboo and thatch at Tiên sandbank, called Bãi Tiên Hermitage. The founder was Venerable Giác Nguyên (abbot: ?–1801), originally from Thừa Thiên, disciple of Zen master Liễu Quán (?–1743), following the Pure Land school, worshipping Amitābha Buddha.

In 1801, after Venerable Giác Nguyên passed away, Nun Diệu Thiện came to take care of Bãi Tiên Hermitage. Here, she mobilised devotees and visitors from afar to contribute funds and rebuilt the hermitage, then renamed it Bãi Tiên Pagoda.

Next came Giáo thọ Huỳnh Văn Lương (abbot: 1828), Venerable Tăng Chiếu (abbot: 1829–1858), and when Venerable Hoàng (or Huỳnh) Đức Hội (Dharma name: Tánh Minh, 39th generation of the Lâm Tế lineage, Liễu Quán branch) became abbot (1858–1881), Bãi Tiên Pagoda was rebuilt in wood (with timber donated by wood traders returning from Cambodia to sell at Vĩnh Long market), and renamed Tiên Châu Di Đà Tự. Therefore, the book Đại Nam nhất thống chí records Venerable Hoàng Đức Hội as the one who "built" Tiên Châu Pagoda.

The Tiên Châu Pagoda built by Venerable Hoàng Đức Hội was in the shape of the character "tam" (three), consisting of three connected sections: the main hall, the patriarchs' hall, and the monks' quarters. The pagoda had a total of 96 round wooden columns made from precious timber, with beams and trusses made of căm xe and redwood, intricately carved by local artisans and craftsmen from Huế.

Afterwards, Tiên Châu Pagoda underwent several renovations, the most significant being in the year Kỷ Hợi (1899). At that time, the pagoda had four sections: the front hall, main hall, central hall, and patriarchs' hall. Each section was built in the "tứ trụ" (four pillars) style, expanded in both width and length thanks to additional beams. The framework was made of precious wood, the roof was covered with yin-yang tiles, and the walls were panelled.

Around 1945, French troops returned to reoccupy Vĩnh Long. From their warships on the Cổ Chiên River, they fired cannons at the shore. Shells rained down on the pagoda, but only hit the beams and columns, leaving the Buddha statues unscathed.

After the Tết Offensive (1968), the pagoda again suffered heavy war damage. Therefore, Mr. Đốc phủ Võ Văn Châu sold five sao trees from the pagoda and mobilised devotees and visitors to raise funds for restoration. According to a design by Venerable Thiên Hương brought from Sài Gòn, the interior remained unchanged, but the façade was rebuilt in concrete. After this, the pagoda measured 46 metres in length and 20 metres in width. On the roof were five towers, with the central tower being the largest, and a signboard reading Tiên Châu Tự hung in the centre.

In 2009, the gate of Tiên Châu Pagoda was rebuilt, and the entire pagoda was repainted.

The interior of Tiên Châu Pagoda is now beautifully decorated. In the centre of the four pillars is an altar, enshrining a large clay statue of Amitābha Buddha. On either side of the altar are lacquered couplets inscribed:

Phật nhật tăng huy vĩnh thùy vạn cổ

Pháp luân thường chuyển biến thập phương.

Which means:

The Buddha's light shines eternally, illuminating all ages

The Dharma wheel ever turns, transforming all directions.

Below the Amitābha statue are the Three Buddhas, a statue of Śākyamuni in meditation, and the infant Śākyamuni. Behind, back-to-back with the Amitābha statue, is a large statue of Maitreya Buddha. On the side walls are altars to other deities, such as: Kṣitigarbha Bodhisattva, Cundi Buddha, Bodhidharma, the Jade Emperor, the Ten Kings of Hell, Nam Tào, Bắc Đẩu, Tiêu Diện Đại Sĩ, Dharma Protectors, etc.

The central hall and patriarchs' hall are where former abbots and deceased male and female devotees are worshipped. This is also the reception area, so many paintings encouraging virtue and meaningful couplets are displayed, such as:

Mộ cổ thành chung, cảnh tỉnh ái hà danh lợi khách.

Kinh thanh Phật hiệu, hoán hồi khổ hải mộng mê nhân.

Which means:

Morning drum, evening bell, awaken those intoxicated by fame and fortune

Sutra recitations and Buddha's name, transform those lost in the sea of suffering.

Currently, the pagoda still preserves many artefacts of high cultural and artistic value, such as the Maitreya Buddha statue, a carved bao lam screen with the Eighteen Arhats, and many finely carved paintings and couplets from the 19th century depicting the four sacred animals, the four seasons, etc.

As an ancient pagoda of both material and spiritual value, on 12 December 1994, Tiên Châu Pagoda was recognised by the authorities as a "National Historical and Cultural Site".

Tiên Châu Pagoda is a beautiful ancient pagoda, and Tiên sandbank is a scenic spot. Therefore, from past to present, many scholars and beauties have visited and composed poetry. Notably, there is a poem by Đốc phủ sứ Nguyễn Hữu Đức as follows:

Tiên Châu shines before Vĩnh Long citadel

Here is bustling, there is deserted.

Half hidden by grass and trees, white houses,

Divided by sky and water, green willows.

People and scenery, days and months, three herdsmen,

Buddha's temple, morning and evening, a single drumbeat.

Fame and fortune, here, the heart does not yearn,

The four seasons' scenery, who can rival?

Huỳnh Minh, Vĩnh Long xưa. Thanh Niên Publishing House reprinted in 2002.

Trần Thành Trung, article "Chùa Tiên Châu" published in Bông Sen magazine, issue 39 (December 2004).