Phật Lớn Pagoda (Hà Tiên)

Phật Lớn Pagoda, with the formal name Thiên Trúc Tự, is an ancient Vietnamese pagoda. The pagoda is located at 197/11 Phương Thành Street, Hà Tiên Ward, An Giang Province. This site still preserves a large Buddha statue modelled after Thai statues, belonging to the Theravada tradition (Southern Buddhism), and a Great Bell (Đại Hồng Chung) belonging to the Mahayana tradition (Northern Buddhism).

The exact time of the pagoda's founding has not been determined. According to local oral tradition, the pagoda has existed for a very long time, from before Mạc Cửu organised the reclamation of Hà Tiên (that is, before the 16th century). At that time, among the resident communities, the Khmer ethnic group was the majority, and most followed the Theravada Buddhist faith. The pagoda is situated at the foot of Đề Liêm Mountain (formerly called Bát Giác Mountain), believed to be the place where Khmer Theravada monks resided, practised, studied, and organised traditional Theravada Buddhist festivals. According to the account of Venerable Pháp Kiên, who contributed to the restoration of the pagoda, during the early 1960s, when the main hall (Bảo điện) was being restored, a brick was found beneath the pedestal of the large seated Buddha statue, inscribed with the Khmer numerals "1616".

Although it is a Theravada pagoda, within the pagoda there still remains

However, it seems that there was a period when there were no monks of the sect residing here (perhaps due to the extremely fierce warfare in this area, so the Venerables could not stay here for a certain time), which is why the Đại Hồng Chung (Great Bell) appeared (on which is inscribed: 'Kỷ Tỵ Year Thiên Trúc Tự'), a ritual object (a type of dharma instrument used only in the daily activities of the Northern (Mahayana) sect at Thiên Trúc Tự, and still in use today). It is speculated that the Đại Hồng Chung may be a relic of the late Elder Hòa Thượng Ấn Đàm of the Mahayana sect, 35th generation of the Lâm Tế lineage from China. The stone stele records the year 1662, and the Seven-Storey Stupa still stands firm behind Thiên Trúc Tự, at the foot of Đề-Liêm Mountain, on the southern side of the mountain.

Thus, it can be inferred that by the time of Venerable Ấn Đàm (1662), Thiên Trúc Tự Pagoda already existed, and the Venerable once stopped here for solitary practice; and the Đại Hồng Chung may also be a relic he left during his time of practice here.

From the centre of Hà Tiên city, following Phương Thành towards Thạch Động, on the left beside the foot of Đề-Liêm Mountain is the gate of the pagoda: Thiên Trúc Tự (1), i.e. Phật Lớn Pagoda (Hà Tiên). Entering the pagoda gate, there is a wide, straight path; going a further 84 metres leads to the fence surrounding the pagoda: Thiên Trúc Tự. The entire grounds of the pagoda occupy an area of 2,869.00 m², adjacent to the foot of Đề-Liêm Mountain. The front of the pagoda faces directly east, while the southern side faces directly towards Phù Dung Tự Pagoda on the other side of Bình San Mountain.

The Main Hall is majestic, tall and spacious; clearly displaying the stature of a pagoda with a long history and traditional decorative motifs that have not faded with time. In the pagoda courtyard, there are many ornamental trees and flowers showing off their vibrant colours. Especially prominent are the frangipani, ixora, and rose flowers, which add to the vitality for the butterflies fluttering about whenever dawn breaks or dusk falls, as the sound of the pagoda bell echoes...

Behind the Main Hall is the spacious Hậu Tổ-Trai-đường (Ancestral Hall and Dining Hall), with an airy space. This is where Buddhist devotees gather during festivals. To the left of the Main Hall is the Tăng-xá (monks’ quarters), newly built at the end of 2004; next to it are the Kitchen and Dining Hall, both quite well-appointed. In front of the Kitchen and Dining Hall, in the space adjoining the Hậu Tổ Hall, is a trellis covered with 'Hương Cát Đằng' (Thunbergia grandiflora) flowers. Hundreds of flower vines hang down like blooming orchids, their purple colour radiating gentle, fresh beauty.

Inside the Main Hall is a statue of Buddha Shakyamuni (the Great Buddha statue) seated on a lotus throne, right in the centre. The statue’s face and posture resemble those of Buddha statues preserved in museums in Bangkok, Thailand. According to the opinions of many historians of Hà Tiên: 'After the period when two Siamese princes (from Thailand) were exiled in Vietnam, in the land of Hà Tiên for a time, after returning to Siam to reclaim their throne, they came back to Hà Tiên with Siamese artisans to restore the Buddha statue at Chùa Hang (Hải Sơn Tự), Bình An commune, Kiên Lương district, Kiên Giang province first; then the Great Buddha statue at Thiên Trúc Tự Pagoda, which is still venerated today. Both statues at Hải Sơn Tự and Thiên Trúc Tự are identical in face and posture... The Great Buddha statue (Thiên Trúc Tự) is 2.6 m tall; the seated figure measures 1.9 m from left knee to right knee. Behind and to the left of the statue hangs the Đại Hồng Chung, 1.15 m high, 0.6 m in diameter, inscribed in Chinese: "Kỷ Tỵ Year Thiên Trúc Tự". There is also a Si-Ma stone stele with decorative patterns in the Thai style (as pagodas of the Khmer Theravada Buddhist tradition in Hà Tiên and surrounding areas do not have Si-Ma steles with such motifs).

In the memory of the people of Hà Tiên, even the elderly do not clearly know who founded and built Thiên Trúc Tự, or who was the abbot at that time... Some only know that during the French colonial period, when their parents went to the pagoda to make offerings, they were taken along; thus they came to know of Thiên Trúc Tự from then on.

Thus, it can be inferred that by the time Venerable Ấn Đàm (1662) arrived in this area, Thiên Trúc Tự Pagoda had already been established. And Venerable Ấn Đàm once stopped here for practice and left relics at Thiên Trúc Tự.

In the early days, the pagoda still had resident monks. The monks would perform daily rituals, strike the drum and bell, and recite sutras twice daily: morning and evening. The French troops stationed nearby thought the pagoda was using the drum as an alarm to signal revolutionary forces, and the sound disturbed the French soldiers’ sleep, so they increased patrols and surveillance and issued a ban, forbidding the monks from striking the drum or bell and reciting sutras. After the ban on traditional Theravada Buddhist practice, the monks gradually left to seek other places for practice. Thus, for a long period, there were no Khmer Theravada monks at Thiên Trúc Tự; the pagoda became deserted and dilapidated over the years due to lack of care and repair. It was not until later that a couple, Mr. Huỳnh Văn Mót and Mrs. Nguyễn Thị Sảnh, lay Buddhists from elsewhere, came and saw the pagoda unmanaged; so they decided to stay for shelter. They lived here, making a living and practising as lay Buddhists for quite a long time, and later became the caretakers of the pagoda until early 1960.

In 1960, Venerable Pháp Kiên (secular name: Huỳnh Văn Liêm, from Tam Bình district, Vĩnh Long province) visited the pagoda while in Hà Tiên. At that time, the pagoda gate was just propped up with two bamboo poles, with a sign reading: 'Thiên Trúc Tự'. But local people and Buddhists were accustomed to calling it 'Chùa Phật Lớn' (Great Buddha Pagoda), as only Thiên Trúc Tự had the largest Buddha statue in the Hà Tiên area. The name board was still there, but the letters had faded from sun and rain. Not long after, also in 1960, Venerable Pháp Kiên was invited by the caretaker couple to take over the pagoda, and he agreed to become abbot, joining with the Management Committee and devotees to organise festivals according to the Theravada (Southern) tradition, and gradually rebuilt the Main Hall, constructed a Lecture Hall and Kitchen. He guided Buddhists in practising according to the Vietnamese Theravada tradition; soon, laypeople came to request ordination and study at the pagoda, and many distant devotees came to take refuge and receive precepts to practise at home.

Notably, there were events that seemed almost legendary, as recounted by Venerable Thích Nhật Quang (currently abbot of Phù Dung Pagoda in the Bình San heritage area), local Buddhists and residents: around the early 1950s, many people, while sleeping at night, dreamt repeatedly over several days that someone told them: 'Go to Mũi Nai beach to invite the Buddha to Thiên Trúc Tự.' Those who received the dream met at the pagoda, discussed and shared their dreams, and found that although the times differed, the content was the same. Initially, people hesitated, half-believing, as they wondered how a Buddha could be found at sea; but after several days of repeated dreams, they decided to go together to the beach, burn incense, and found a wooden Buddha statue. The statue was carved in the Khmer style, but due to being buried and eroded over time, it had many scratches. It was later restored and is now placed to the left of the Great Buddha statue in the Main Hall. The people and Buddhists have great faith, as after bringing the statue to Thiên Trúc Tự, the weather became favourable and harvests abundant; previously, before the statue was brought, the weather was unfavourable, with droughts affecting crops and making life difficult.

Another rare event also occurred at Thiên Trúc Tự. On a sunny afternoon in January, during the New Year’s Peace-Praying Ceremony in 1962, at about 1 pm, Venerable Pháp Kiên was meditating in his simple wooden and tin hut to the left of the Main Hall. Suddenly, at the foot of Đề-Liêm Mountain, a very large python appeared, crawled down to the lotus pond to drink, then passed by the Venerable’s hut. At that moment, the Venerable could think of nothing but to sit still, close his eyes, and leave his fate to the python. At the same time, two laywomen, Giác Chánh and Giác Ngạn, who brought water for the Venerable daily, witnessed this extraordinary event and were so frightened they fainted. Afterwards, both teacher and disciples recovered, and saw that the python had left towards Thất Sơn Mountain, leaving traces in the pond and on the bank. When everyone looked up, they saw a flock of black crows and cuckoos flying in the same direction as the python, as if to accompany the spirit of the python.

After the python left, the teacher and disciples sat outside the hut, recounting the encounter, and while following the traces, they found a spoon tree near the hut where the python had rested. The spoon handle was made of precious wood, the bowl from polished shell, very beautiful. On the handle was inscribed: 'Mạc Thiên Tích' (1). Thus, it was understood that the python had brought a precious spoon as an offering to Venerable Pháp Kiên. Through this event, the python was seen as bringing a good omen for Thiên Trúc Tự in the future...

People and Buddhists from Hà Tiên, Rạch Giá and elsewhere heard about the python visiting the pagoda and came to see the traces left at the pond. Many considered this a rare and strange event, so many groups came to visit; at the same time, people contributed considerable donations to the pagoda. Thanks to these funds, in 1962–1963, Venerable Pháp Kiên, together with the Management Committee and Buddhists, upgraded and rebuilt the pagoda.

Like the general situation of the country at that time, including Hà Tiên, Thiên Trúc Tự Pagoda also faced many difficulties in obtaining permission for repairs. But with good intentions and following the Buddhist path, Venerable Pháp Kiên, the Management Committee and Buddhists persevered through all hardships, in sweat and tears, to restore Thiên Trúc Pagoda; the Main Hall was reinforced with durable materials and made as spacious as it is today. After renovation, the pagoda was given the sign 'Thiên Trước Cổ Tự'.

After the restoration, the scenery here became more open, majestic, and solemn, clearly expressing the ancient character of the pagoda, blended with the mysterious and poetic atmosphere of Hà Tiên: a gentle land of the Immortals and Buddhas. Since then, Thiên Trúc Tự has attracted more Buddhists and visitors, who come to worship the Buddha in increasing numbers.

In the early 1970s, a lecture hall was opened here for Buddhist teachings, with Venerable Pháp Chơn as abbot, during festivals. At the same time, teacher C. Ru-À-Cha Nho, after finishing grade 9 in Cambodia, temporarily resided at Thiên Trúc Tự to open many courses in Pali language, Buddhist scriptures, and Khmer script for many learners at that time...

Thiên Trúc Tự Pagoda retains the distinctive character of the long-established community of Hà Tiên. Currently, the pagoda has over 1,000 Buddhist devotees, including Kinh, Khmer, and Hoa ethnic groups, with the Kinh being the majority. They come to the pagoda during traditional festivals, in a spirit of unity, gathering before the Buddha’s throne, chanting sutras and verses, praying for national peace, prosperity, and happiness for all... Precisely because of this, Thiên Trúc Pagoda is understood as a place of worship expressing the harmony of the ethnic groups living in the community. United together, cherishing bonds like siblings in one family.

This unity among the ethnic groups has lasted for generations. They share the ideal of following the path of goodness, avoiding evil; loving their homeland and defending the nation; a tradition passed down from ancient times by many Vietnamese Buddhist patriarchs.

Since the liberation of the South and national reunification, the people of Hà Tiên, along with the whole country, have lived in peace. Buddhism has enjoyed more favourable conditions for development, being unified into the 'Vietnam Buddhist Sangha'. From here, monks and Buddhists across Vietnam, including Hà Tiên and Thiên Trúc Pagoda, have become more steadfast in their faith on the Buddhist path. Following Buddhism is to cultivate good morals, compassion, altruism, and true love for all; in line with the righteousness of the community of ethnic groups in society. Continuing to inherit and enhance the precious traditions of the Dragon and Fairy race, uniting religion and life as one, adding beauty to life in society, always improving both secular and spiritual well-being.

Such ideals and aspirations of the monks and Buddhists are truly noble. With one heart, they steadfastly practise Buddhism, bound by love for their homeland, contributing to building a more prosperous and beautiful Vietnam. This is the expression of humanism in the teachings, complying with the laws of the State, and harmonising with the cultural and civilised lifestyle of contemporary society. Thus, practically contributing to enhancing the quality of life for everyone in today’s new society.

Overall, Thiên Trúc Pagoda has a long-standing tradition, closely linked to the land of Hà Tiên. However, if counting from before 1960 to now, the pagoda has had several abbots over time as follows:

Before 1960, the caretakers of Thiên Trúc Tự were Mr. Huỳnh Văn Mót and Mrs. Nguyễn Thị Sảnh. Venerable Pháp Kiên (secular name: Huỳnh Văn Liêm, from Tam Bình district, Vĩnh Long province) was abbot from 1960–1968; Venerable Pháp Chơn (secular name: Lê Văn Bốn, born 1905–1989, from Hà Tiên district, Kiên Giang province) was abbot from 1969–1989; Venerable Pháp Nhẫn (secular name: Diệp Bình Lợi, born 1950, from Hà Tiên district, Kiên Giang province) was abbot from 1990–1997; Bhikkhu Pháp Hảo (secular name: Đàm Hồng Phúc, born 1975, from Trà Cú district, Trà Vinh province) has been abbot from 1999 to the present.