Ông Pagoda (Thu Xà)

Quảng Ngãi(Chùa Ông (Thu Xà))

Overview & history

Ông Pagoda Thu Xà (its Sino-Vietnamese name is Quan Thánh tự, or Đại Tự Quan Thánh) is located in the Thu Xà market town, Tư Nghĩa commune, Quảng Ngãi province; it is 10 km east of the provincial capital of Quảng Ngãi.

Characteristics

It was built in 1821, the second year of Minh Mạng, by the four Minh Hương guilds: Phúc Kiến, Triều Châu, Hải Nam, and Quảng Đông, who together established it.

It has undergone four renovations in the years 1881, 1894, 1920, and 1991, with financial contributions from Nguyễn dynasty officials, merchants, and the people of Quảng Ngãi. Despite many renovations, the pagoda's architecture has remained intact.

The pagoda worships Quan Công (Lord Guan) in the main hall, and the Bodhisattva Quan Âm Nam Hải (Avalokiteśvara of the Southern Sea) in the rear sanctuary, following the "Saints in front, Buddha behind" layout. In addition, the rear sanctuary also contains a group of statues of Thiên Hậu (the Heavenly Queen) with Thiên Lý Nhãn (Thousand-Mile Eye), Thiên Lý Nhĩ (Thousand-Mile Ear), Cửu Thiên Huyền Nữ (Mysterious Lady of the Nine Heavens), and a group of statues of Kim Đẩu with the 12 midwife goddesses (bà mụ).

Although modest compared to other pagodas established by the Chinese in Hội An, here there is a harmonious combination of Chinese and Vietnamese architecture overall, with extremely skilful and elaborate carvings.

The pagoda has a tightly organised layout including: a triple-arched gate (cổng tam quan), a screen wall (bình phong), and bell and drum towers (lầu chuông lầu trống). In the front hall (nhà tiền đường) there are 18 columns dividing it into three main sections and two side wings. The architecture follows the "tam" (three) character style, comprising three interconnected buildings: the front hall, the main hall, and the rear sanctuary. On the ridge of the roof at the front of the pagoda are inscribed the three characters: "Quan Thánh tự". During the renovation in the Khải Định era in 1920, the pagoda's architecture underwent some changes.

The pagoda has six steles inscribed in classical Chinese, divided into two types: those with the era name Thành Thái, 7th year (1895), and those with the era name Khải Định Canh Thân (1920), which are the years the pagoda was renovated.

As an ancient pagoda that has been relatively well preserved in Quảng Ngãi, where there is an intersection between Vietnamese and Chinese architecture (with various types of roof beam structures: chồng rường chày cối and chồng rường giả thủ—Central Vietnam; cánh ác cột trốn trính chuyền—Northern Delta; chồng rường trái bí—Northern Chinese style), Ông Pagoda Thu Xà has been recognised by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism as a national heritage site under Decision No. 43 VH/QĐ dated 7/1/1993.

Every year, during the cultural festival for the Chinese community held in Ho Chi Minh City—a national-level festival for Chinese people in Vietnam organised by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism—Quảng Ngãi is one of 27 localities nationwide participating in the festival.

Photos

📷 Contribute photos

Visiting tips

Dress modestly; remove hats and keep quiet inside the main hall.
Incense, flowers and offerings are usually sold right outside the gate; light an odd number of sticks (1 or 3).
Most pagodas open from early morning to evening and are free to enter (some major sites charge a small scenic fee).
Full-moon days, the 1st of the lunar month and Tet are very crowded; visit on weekday mornings for a quiet experience.
Ask permission before photographing inside shrines; do not touch statues or altar objects.